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Klemheist knot [1 record]

Record 1 2020-11-18

English

Subject field(s)
  • Ropemaking
  • Mountain Sports
  • Speleology
CONT

The Klemheist knot (or Machard knot) is a type of friction hitch used as a part of a system to ascend or descend a climbing rope. ... A Prusik loop is wrapped round the climbing rope two or three times. The loop is then threaded through itself and carefully tightened to wrap the climbing rope neatly. In use, strain must only be taken on the hanging loop. Never grip and pull on the knot itself-a rapid descent can occur! If the knot slips when load is placed on the hanging loop, wrap the loop around the climbing rope another time or two as necessary until there is no slippage.

CONT

The knot is tied with a thin cord, usually 5 mm or 6 mm in diameter, onto the rope. The climber then attaches himself to the knot by clipping the cord onto his harness. Progress up a fixed rope is made by sliding the knot up the rope and then weighting or loading it with the climber’s weight. When loaded, the Klemheist knot cinches onto the climbing rope, allowing the climber to progress upward. When the knot is unloaded, it loosens, allowing the climber to slide it up the rope.

French

Domaine(s)
  • Corderie
  • Sports de montagne
  • Spéléologie
CONT

Nœud Machard, Machard. On enroule un anneau de cordelette quatre ou six fois autour d'une corde, et on passe l'extrémité inférieure de la cordelette dans sa boucle supérieure. Nœud autobloquant vers le bas; coulisse mieux qu'un Prusik sur une corde sèche, mais moins bien qu'un Prusik sur une corde mouillée ou gelée; peut servir d'auto-assurage dans une descente en rappel, être employé comme nœud de Prusik pour monter à la corde, et servir d'assurance sur piton.

OBS

nœud de Machard; nœud Machard; Machard : ne pas confondre avec le terme «nœud autobloquant Machard». Ces deux nœuds se ressemblent mais les boucles ne sont pas nouées de la même manière.

Spanish

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