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ASSURANCE MOUVEMENT [1 record]

Record 1 1995-04-19

English

Subject field(s)
  • Mountain Sports
CONT

The running belay is an old technique that is still occasionally used for the time it save. Both climbers tie in and move simultaneously. There is no belayer. The leader places occasional protection and clips the rope through it. In a fall, the rope - running through the protection - will be held at some point by the weight of the other climber, because the rope is tied to both climbers' harnesses and neither is anchored. ... If either climber falls, both may fall - and a big fall is arrested only by dragging one's partner.

OBS

A running belay is not to be confused with moving in coils, which is simply carrying the rope over truly easy ground without using intermediate protection and when any type of belay is unneccessary.

French

Domaine(s)
  • Sports de montagne
DEF

[...] les techniques d'utilisation de la corde qui doivent permettre à un alpiniste d'enrayer une chute de son ou de ses compagnons lorsque tous progressent ensemble.

CONT

Elle s'utilise dans les terrains peu difficiles mais où une chute peut avoir de graves conséquences et où la rapidité de la progression est un facteur de sécurité dominant tous les autres. [...] type d'assurance qui est utilisé la plupart du temps sur glacier [...]

CONT

L'assurance en mouvement en haute montagne est peut-être l'assurance la plus délicate qui soit [...] Mal utilisée, elle peut être dangereuse [...] il ne faut absolument pas oublier qu'il n'y a aucun point d'assurance entre les deux grimpeurs.

Spanish

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