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PROFIL PLAGE [1 record]

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Record 1 2012-03-26

English

Subject field(s)
  • Geomorphology and Geomorphogeny
  • Hydrology and Hydrography
DEF

A vertical cross section of a beach measured perpendicular to the shoreline.

CONT

The beach profile adjusts rapidly to the wave energy. In general, high waves with short periods cause the beach to erode, and the berm sand is shifted offshore to the bar. Low waves with longer periods, primarily in summer, move sand from the bar and return it to the berm. The average wave height varies on a seasonal basis, resulting in typical “winter” (high energy) and “summer” (low energy) beach profiles. The winter profile is characterized by a narrow backshore, flat foreshore, and a large offshore bar. The summer profile has a wide backshore, a steep foreshore, and a well-developed berm.

French

Domaine(s)
  • Géomorphologie et géomorphogénie
  • Hydrologie et hydrographie
CONT

Les mesures effectuées selon les directions cross-shore et verticale sont communément appelées «profil de plage». Ces derniers forment bien souvent la base des observations sur les plages.

CONT

Dans la réalité, le profil d'une plage est en perpétuel changement car il se modifieau gré des conditions hydrologiques et météorologiques. Dès lors, on remarquegénéralement un relèvement du profil des plages pendant la période estivale, unerelative stabilité en hiver, à cause de la présence des glaces qui recouvrent les berges, et un abaissement des plages lors des tempêtes automnales et printanières.

Spanish

Campo(s) temático(s)
  • Geomorfología y geomorfogénesis
  • Hidrología e hidrografía
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