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ONDE BERGE [1 record]

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Record 1 1985-12-04

English

Subject field(s)
  • Hydrology and Hydrography
DEF

An ocean wave moving parallel to the coast, with crests normal to the coastline; maximum amplitude is at shore, with amplitude falling off exponentially farther from shore.

French

Domaine(s)
  • Hydrologie et hydrographie
CONT

La comparaison des mouvements fort divers, au point de vue de leur périodicité, provoqués par les dépressions et les vents sur la mer-courants de dérive-houle et vagues - surélévations de niveau diverses - est intéressante car elle montre combien un système apériodique comme le vent est capable de susciter dans l'eau, outre des rides de très courtes périodes, des vagues et houles ordinaires, des phénomènes, côtiers complexes que nous n'avons pas cités, des ondes de berge (edge waves), des seiches, des ondes de tempête, enfin des courants.

Spanish

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